Saturday, November 19, 2011

Backpack

To mix things up a bit in this week's entry (a misleading phrase considering my disregard for regular updates) I thought I'd try to create a picture of my daily life as revealed by my stalwart companion and close personal friend:

My backpack. I've grown quite attached to my backpack in the last few months. There are so many odds and ends that I don't feel comfortable without, and my backpack is always happy to soothe my insecurities by porting along generally unnecessary supplies. At the moment, it contains:

-A raincoat. The weather changes without warning here, and I've been caught in the rain too many times to leave home without my rain jacket. Particularly on those deceptive sunny days. Stupid sunny days, always trying to lull me into a false sense of security. The last week has been a solid, unbroken block of golden heat, which has me convinced that a rainy day is lurking, sneaking closer and closer...

-My trusty pink Spanish notebook. On our first day of orientation, we all received little notebooks from Pro Peru. Some people got blue notebooks with soccer players, some got black with ninjas, I got a pink one. With a cute little bunny. At first I was afraid that there had been a slight mistake, but Tavia, a volunteer coordinator was quick to reassure me-- it was quite intentional. That same notebook is now used in every Spanish lesson. My teachers find it endlessly amusing.

-Keys. For some reason, all of my keys for things back home made the trip to peru with me. I don't really know where to put them, so they live in my backpack.

-Toilet paper. One of the BIG cultural adjustments centers around toilet paper. TP doesn't live in the bathroom. Instead, one has to bring it with them. Thus, I like to have a roll with me at all times-- the possibility of making a mistake in this regard is too terrifying.

-My computer! My link to you, the beloved reader. I carry it around because Wifi here is a bit like a really great parking spot in the states-- it is never consistent or expected, but one must always be vigilant. The internet cafe I used to use now, oddly enough, no longer has wifi. The quality of their brownies still has me going there regularly. Try not to take that as an indication of your (the beloved reader's) importance to me relative to baked goods.

-My plug adapter. This beloved little fellow keeps me charged and typing, listening, skyping, and brushing (my teeth-- with the electric toothbrush which I brought all the way to Peru. Judge if you must, but never, NEVER question the state of my dental hygiene)

-My book. When applying to this program, I remember my interviewer asking me something along the lines of “How will you avoid entering a violent rage after the repeated frustration of extreme non-punctuality by Peruvians?” He may have phrased it a bit more delicately. The point, however, was that I came prepared to flex like the humble willow in the breezes of polychronic perceptions of time. As it turns out, most every Peruvian I've met has been extremely punctual, and I've spent more time waiting for gringos than I have for Peruvians. To that end, a book is a wonderful addition to my backpack. It also
A) makes me look terribly smart and impressive when people arrive, and
B) creates the impression that I have been waiting much longer than I actually have been, thereby reinforcing my reputation as a timely arriver. (A butchery of the English language? Mayhaps, but a conscious one)
I'm currently reading The Poisonwood Bible, which also gets me “cultured person” credit-- redeemable for valuable prizes and insight.

-Hand sanitizer. Miracle gel. When you can't wash-- sanitize! Before meals, before cooking, before flossing. I've consumed enough of the stuff that I'm coming to appreciate the subtleties of the bitter aftertaste it leave in the mouth. The low grade generics have a chemical sourness, but the good ones, GermX or Purell often have subtle floral undertones.

-Sunscreen. The elevation combines with the side effects of antibiotics (sensitivity to sun) to make Urubamba a giant broiler to for the unprepared. For this reason, I also always tote around my

-Beloved baseball cap. I actually have two, one from Bridge Year that I try to avoid destroying completely, and one lightening bolt cap that I found on the street in AK, and which is subject to a rough treatment. It gets sweated upon as I hike, saturated in DEET as I poison insects, and it is also the tool of choice for swatting spiders and ants off of things that ought not to have spiders and ants on them. Namely me. I honestly doubt that that poor hat will ever see the states again.

-Spare Hidden Toilet Paper. I think that my concern in this matter is valid. Can you really disagree?

-Water bottle. I don't actually drink a lot of water throughout the day; the tea that I get after each meal usually does the trick of keeping me hydrated. Instead, the water bottle lives in my backpack as a reminder to take it to the office to fill for my nighttime water needs. Those would be tooth brushing and pill swallowing. Clean water has truly become a logistical challenge. Some days I don't go to the office, and I have to plan ahead for those by filling up my spare bottle. Some days I'll have a hike and need another spare. It's all very complicated, and I pay dearly for my mistakes. That is, I pay one sole to buy bottled water-- one sole that could be spent on a churro, a bowl of arroz con leche, or two (2!!!!) tasty pastries. A sad, sad sacrifice.

This blog entry is written in memory of my pen, which until recently lived in my backpack and served nobly as a writing utensil. Pen fought valiantly against the altitude of the Inca trail, but lost spectacularly. My memories, like his stain, will last forever.

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Machu Picchu and the Inca trail:

DAY 1
Friday morning, hauling backpack and slathered in sunscreen, I made my way to the plaza to begin our Inca trail adventure. A van delivered us to Ollyantaytambo, where we were to round up some porters and set off. Unfortunately, the porters, it seemed, had not been made aware of this plan. In fact, we couldn't find enough. So we waited. We ate banana pancakes at a local cafe. We slept in the van. We checked out jewelry shops with BOTH kinds of Peruvian jewelry shop workers-- the high pressure tourist hunter and the slightly stoned craftsman. We walked around. We did not hike that morning. When the necessary porters (there are actually laws about the number of porters a party is required to bring on the trail) had been imported from nearby cities, it was lunch time, so we had lunch before heading out. And then we were off.

Day 1 hiking was easy, beautiful, and fun. Our guide pointed out medicinal plants (translation, narcotic plants), ancient ruins, and the landscape was stunning. We were walking though valleys, and the mountains around us were just beginning to turn green with the rainy season. When we camped, we were introduced to the phenominal food that the porters would prepare throughout the trip. After coffee and crackers, we had a semolina soup. Dessert was also served-- a candied plantain in syrup. Luxury camping at its finest.

DAY 2:
Saturday morning, we woke very, very early. 4:45. Fortunately, the porters woke us with cups of tea in the tents and a nice crepe for breakfast. At this point, I was beginning to wonder if we were really experiencing the Inca trail as the Incas did. Something tells me they had fewer condiment choices for their crepes. Before setting out, the porters took a substantial portion of the loads off our backs in preparation for the toughest day. I had (and still do have) a moral discomfort with the amount of work the porters did for us-- their roles were uncomfortably similar to servants'-- but I have doubts about my ability to survive day two without the support of porters. At any rate, I'm immensely grateful, because:

Day two was a killer. In total, I believe we hiked for 9 hours that day, and at least two thirds was us stairs. Stairs. The Incas loved their stairs. Not much can be said about those stairs, other than that I'd be more than happy to live a perfectly level life and never see another step. The elevation gain was significant. Between the altitude (4200 meters) and the coca leaves that we kept chewing, it was the highest I'd ever been. (just kidding benevolent, fun-loving Princeton folks, please don't squash our funding!).

The grueling nature of Day 2 was more than worth it when I consider the sights. We saw mountains in mist, waterfalls, ancient green overgrowth, and ancient, pristine Incan ruins. It was in day two that I started to feel the liberating removal from civilization that marks the best trips in nature. It was in day two that I had my strongest moment of “praise be, the trail levels out now.” And it was in day two that the Princeton bridge year group proved our musical prowess by belting out “Fill Me Up Buttercup” from ancient Incan constructions.

DAY 3
Day 3 was a relatively breezy 6 hours or so, and after the morning hike, we had the afternoon free to journal, engage in insightful discussions with group members, and reflect on the magnificent beauty around us. Instead, we slept. It was wonderful. Afterwords, we hoped on over to a huge ruin with a grand set of agricultural terraces and the rainbow temple. Incan belief: Don't smile at rainbows, negative energy will enter your body and rot your teeth.

In the evening, we had the typically delicious dinner (a beet and carrot salad with Chow mein noodles and, mystery of mysteries, a cake) and then applauded and tipped the porters.

A thought on the porters: These guys do the same Inca trail we do, except that they get up an hour earlier to set up breakfast and start breaking camp. They run past us on the trail to arrive at rest points an hour earlier to set up lunch, dinner, and camp. They make the food, do the dishes, filter the water, and set the table. And they do it all with packs that are at least 25 kilos. And packs is a loose term, most don't have waist support. And a decent number of them were wearing sandals. They made the Incan trail luxurious, and they are paid next to nothing in American terms, maybe a total of 150 dollars for the four days. I can't decide how to feel about them. I feel guilty for the business arrangement that we had with them, but I also recognize that the four day income is more than many families make in a month here. And of course, they made my time on the incan trail so much more pleasant. Like so much in Peru, the situation is complex.

DAY 4 (AKA MACHU PICCHU DAY)
We woke up in the middle of the night to hike the last couple of hours to Machu Picchu. The last stretch was a high intensity cold war of a race. All the trekers wanted to arrive first, but nobody could flat out run. Instead, the line of people was marching at top speed and rudely jostling to pass. We couldn't stop for a break on that last couple of kilometers. It was madness. 

The first sight of Machu Picchu was an outline in the fog. I can't really do the lost city justice, maybe the pictures will help, but the panoramic view from Winu Picchu, the nearby mountain that we climbed, was one of the unforgettable sights of my life. I will say that I found the tourism a bit odd. This ancient lost city feels like it should be deserted, perpetually abandoned to time but instead, it crawls with bright shirted tourists and scruffy backpackers. 

Anyhow, enjoy the pictures:



 From the trail

 This is a view from dead woman pass, the high point of the trip at 4200 meters
 The trail. When we were surrounded by the mist, it seemed to stretch into nowhere
 Ruins on the way, this was a lookout tower
 A picturesque mountain lake. The cynic in my reminds you that it was probably filled with picturesque intestinal parasites.

 Hehe. Stairs.So many stairs. The Incas: renowned for their stone work and beastly calf muscles.
 My pensive reflection from an agricultural terrace.
 More terraces
 At the sun temple in Machu Picchu

The view from Winu Picchu